Sun Moon Lake and Jiji Travel Guide
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When my desire to visit Taiwan begun many years ago, I was amazed by the beautiful photos I saw online of ‘Sun Moon Lake’ - a picturesque lake amongst the Taiwanese hill country.
Sun Moon Lake online looked difficult to get to (it wasn’t) and I wasn't overly fussed about the accommodation options around there. After searching google maps I found a cute little town called Jiji,(only 30 mins bus ride from Sun Moon Lake) and found a friendly artsy looking hotel for only £50 for 2 nights.
How to get to Jiji
Taipei to Jiji
Take the HSR from Taipei to Taichung (1 hour at £13)
The train stations are really easy to navigate as everything is in English. You will need to show your passport and ticket to be let through the gates to go to the platform. Once you’re down at the platform, it is very organised and there are markings on the floor to show you where to stand for your train. Taiwan was once occupied by Japan, so the Taiwanese are similar in the sense that everyone lines up, no one pushes in front and the trains are always on time. The HSR trains are a 2-3 configuration and they have lots of leg room. If you are by the window, the person next to you doesn't need to move if you want to get up.
Taichung to Jiji
Take the 6333 Nantou bus from platform 4 (1 hour)
I was a bit confused as to where to get the bus from when I arrived in the Taichung HSR station but the Taiwanese are super helpful. All I did was ask someone at the info desk and they pointed me in the right direction. When I was waiting at my platform, the platform next to me was the bus to Sun Moon Lake. It had a huge line and when the bus arrived it was a big coach bus. There wasn’t anyone waiting at my platform and when my bus arrived it was a beat up little 10 seater bus with only 3 local men on it. (Make sure your Easycard is topped up because you can use your Easycard on the buses.) It was the bounciest bus ride of my life, I had to hold onto my little suitcase the whole time. I thought “what am I getting myself into?” I couldn't stop laughing at myself. After tracking the journey on maps.me I got off in Jiji and walked about 10 minutes to my hotel in the mid day heat. A girl came past on her scooter asking if I needed help to the hotel and If I wanted to put my suitcase on her scooter. (she couldn't speak a word of english) I politely declined and to my bemusement she was the lady who worked at the hotel after all!
Where to stay in Jiji
Ark Hotel in Jiji (£50 for 2 nights)
The girl who worked there was one of the friendliest, thoughtful Taiwanese I had met so far. I felt really looked after and she helped me with everything. The hotel came with a free bicycle which I took to explore around the little town of Jiji. My room was a great double size bedroom, modern bathroom and beautifully decorated with fishies!
Where to eat in Jiji
Patisserie (I can’t remember the name but you’ll be able to find it, its only a small village) - Sandwich & cake 110 NT £2.70
Ba Zhang Beef Noodle Restaurant 八張牛肉麵 - Beef Noodle Soup - The lady in the hotel and I attempted to converse over google translate, she told me there was a great beef noodle soup place nearby. I thought she asked if I wanted to come on her scooter with her to the beef noodle place (I’ve never been on one) I reluctantly said yes. I must of misunderstood because she came back about 30 mins later with 3 plastic sacks of beef noodle soup. I was sitting outside and she handed me a sack and went back inside for a bowl and chopsticks for me. It was only 120 NT £2.95!
How to get from Jiji to Sun Moon Lake
Jjii to Shuishe Pier, Sun Moon Lake
Take the 6801 bus from outside the train station on the right
Rometorio.com said to take the 6801 bus from outside the train station on the right. (It was the same stop I got off the bus the day before) This was the correct information. Ignore google maps as it says it will take over 3 hours, when it only took 30 mins. Before I left the hotel in the morning I thought I would quickly ask the lady at the hotel how to get there, she showed me a Taiwanese train time table, this confused me even more. I went to the train station anyway to double check if the train was an easier option. The man who worked there ended up walking me to the bus stop Rome to Rio said to get the bus from. The man spoke to the bus driver for me. I assumed he told him or asked him about Sun Moon Lake. If you don’t have a friendly Taiwanese to assist you, a good idea is to show the bus driver the Chinese symbols for landmarks or towns. Because they won’t always understand you saying ‘Sun Moon Lake’
Things to do in Sun Moon Lake
Rent a bike and ride around the many bike trails. I rented a bike from a random shop and the person who worked there gave me a map and explained the different bike trails around the area. I am pretty sure I took the shortest easiest route as I only had a few hours. If you had a few days there, I would suggest doing more trails and riding around the whole lake.
Take a ferry to the other town on the other side Sun Moon Lake called Ita Thao
Eat at one of the local food markets - I had sweet potato chips & a bao bun
Visit Wenwu Temple
Take the ropeway up the mountain - When I went the lady who worked there told me in was too foggy to see anything. If it was a clear day I am sure the view would be amazing!
Eat tea icecream at Tea18
Visit the Xiangshan Scenic Lookout (this is at the end of the bike trail I went on)
How to get back to Jiji from Shuishe Pier, Sun Moon Lake
Take the same 6801 bus back to Jiji
The buses back to Jiji either left at 3.30 or 5.30, I found these times a bit awkward as I arrived at 11 am. I suggest catching the ferry to the other side first then going on a bike ride. I went on a bike ride first which meant I didn’t get the ferry back in time to get the 3.30 bus. Which meant wandering around not knowing what to do with myself until 5.30. I guess you wouldn't have to worry to much about this if you stayed in Sun Moon Lake.
My overall thoughts on Jiji & Sun Moon Lake
I really enjoyed my stay in Jiji. I felt like I was amongst the local people in a small little town out in the Taiwanese countryside. As I was only there for 2 nights and 1 day, this was a great option to experience 2 different areas. But I wasn’t overly impressed by Sun Moon Lake. It was a very cloudy day and I was on my own. Maybe I was just having one of those days where I wasn’t really feeling it. But I would like to go back and experience it again one day. I probably would stay a couple of days in Sun Moon Lake as you can ride a bike all around the lake and you need more then 1 day to do this.
